Piercing Gauge and Size Explained

Ordering piercing jewellery for the first time can feel like reading a different language: 16G, 1.2 mm, 8 mm bar, 8 mm ring. Each number describes something specific, and once you know which is which, buying the right fit is easy.

What is gauge?

Gauge is the thickness of the bar that passes through the piercing. The confusing part: the scale runs backwards — a higher number means a thinner bar. So 18G is thinner than 16G, which is thinner than 14G. Gauge is usually written with a “G,” and also given in millimetres.

The common gauges

• 20G (0.8 mm) — very fine; some lobe and nostril piercings.
• 18G (1.0 mm) — fine; lobes, nostrils, some cartilage.
• 16G (1.2 mm) — the most common for cartilage piercings.
• 14G (1.6 mm) — thicker; navel, nipple, tongue, industrial, some conch.

16G vs 18G: which is which?

These two cover most ear piercings, so they're worth separating clearly. 18G (1.0 mm) is finer — common for lobes and nostrils, and for a delicate look. 16G (1.2 mm) is the workhorse gauge for most cartilage: helix, tragus, conch and more. Our 16G titanium labret is a typical example. The golden rule: match the gauge your piercer used. Don't assume — if you force a thicker bar into a thinner hole, you'll tear the piercing.

Length and diameter

Gauge is only half the story — you also need the right length (for bars) or diameter (for rings).

Bar length (labrets & barbells)

This is the distance between the two ends, measured in millimetres. A fresh piercing is often fitted with a slightly longer bar to allow for swelling, then downsized to a shorter, neater length once healed. For cartilage, 6 mm and 8 mm cover most ears; lobes often need a touch more.

Ring diameter

For hoops and clickers, the size is the inner diameter in millimetres — 8 mm and 10 mm are the most common for ears, while a septum or daith may want something snugger or larger depending on anatomy.

How to measure what you already have

If a piece fits you well, measure it and reorder to match. Use a digital caliper if you have one: measure the bar thickness for gauge, the distance between the ends for length, and the inner circle for ring diameter. If you don't have a caliper, your piercer can measure it for you in seconds.

Don't change your own gauge

It's tempting to size up to a thicker, chunkier look, but going up a gauge means stretching the piercing — a gradual process that should be done with the right tapers once a piercing is fully healed, never by forcing jewellery. If you want a different thickness, talk to your piercer first.